LEH
Preface
Barren land where you can find only two things snow or sand mountians. The altitude is so high that one can tired in no time. The clouds playing with the peaks all around you. The colorful shades of mountains makes you mesmerizing. You lost in the beauty of this serene environment. You feel like you get Moksha, this is the place called Leh.
Sometimes I think what is special about this place that everybody rushes here. Comes April, and everybody is just asking about ‘How’,’ When’ & ’Then’ kind of queries on almost every adventure forum. People would get curious and crazy for this place and spending their day & night in making itineraries. In adventure terms, people are considered to be virgin if they have not visited Leh.
Well, truly speaking the answers to all these questions is not understood just by reading but only after visiting Leh. We mortals are not capable of describing its beauty but just giving a try. This barren land mainly comprises two colors, the earthen brown & snowy white with some occasional patches of green. The vastness of sky can only be felt at this place. Towering snow capped mountains, the endless valley, high altitude passes & enchanting landscape. The echo of hymens whispering through entire valley by the winds that coming after kissing praying flags.
The clear water of Indus, mighty Himalayas, the Lamas, Yaks & Monasteries, the integral part of this valley, completes the whole picture and makes this land so special that people from different part of the country coming here, leaving their busy schedule and hustle of urban life far behind.
I was planning for this trip since last year (2009) but missed the chance despite my stern efforts. This year I was planned that even if I was alone I would travel alone. Though I discussed my plan with friends but no body turn up at first. Later Rahul (Ricky) node in for this trip, that relieved me that at last I will be not alone and someone there in case of any problem.
Initial planning was like; Ricky first came to Chandigarh on Thursday eve and by Friday morning we would leave for Srinagar (as there was no conformation about Manali-Leh route at that point of time). Hates off to Ricky for his fabulous effort, he drove all the way in entire journey and never complains even when I slept from time to time while he was driving.
Journey Begins
Day0: Delhi --> Chandigarh (260kms)Ricky had been to Chandigarh at 9:00AM instead of as scheduled in his Swift VDi. This was in favor of him only as then he got ample of time for rejuvenating his nerves. Seeing the hectic schedule of coming weeks I advised him to take a sound sleep. I was came home early and started packing things in car and as well in our bag packs, checked the tire pressure and finally checked all other necessary things that we might needed on the trip. Things that we carried for car are:
Day1: Chandigarh -> Pathankot -> Dyalachak -> Udhampur -> Srinagar (700kms) This was the second longest day of entire journey. We left Chandigarh at 4:30AM (delayed by good 30minutes) and our plan was to cover as much distance as we could. I called Vaibhav and he informed that they (Archit & Prashant along with him) already left for Pathankot at sharp 4:00AM. He suggested me, not to go towards Samba -> Udhampur, instead take Dyalachak - Udhampur route, which is even shorter than former one.
We reached Pathankot at 8:00AM and had breakfast, the delicious Chhole and Paranthe that my wify packed for us, in car only. Soon we reached Lakhanpur in no time, this is the border of Punjab and J&K (Toll tax is Rs70 for passenger cars) and famous for its RamLaddu (a kind of fried Moong pulses pakora).
I had ring to Vaibhav and came to knew that his bike got punctured near Lakhanpur and they were get it repaired from their only. We stopped at Dyalachak, waited them for at least 20 min and the moved ahead. We were not even went 5kms, I saw in back view mirror that 3 people approaches us at very high speed. They are Vaibhav Sabharwal, Archit Mittal and Prashant Bhardwaj.
We had chat with them and they told that even their plan was to cover as much distance possible. The route few kms after Dyalachak and Udhampur is scenic but harsh sun rays forced us to kept AC on till Udhampur. This is perhaps the shortest route and bypass Jammu altogether. We reached Udhampur at around 12:00 noon and top up diesel in car. The weather had been changing and there were now clouds in the sky.It’s already down pouring heavily as we reached Patnitop. Vaibhav and party stopped there but we moved ahead. Sky got cleared as we reached Ramban and harsh sunlight scorching us again. Till now the route was so-so as hills are not new for us and tiredness started taking toll on our body. Now came the most exciting part of the journey ‘the jawahar tunnel’. This is approximately 3kms long tunnel and passing it is altogether a different experience. Ricky was excited when passing this tunnel. I really hates off to Indian army, for building this marvelous architecture. One can observe heavy presence of Indian army on both sides & taking picture is forbidden at this tunnel.
As we passed this tunnel, suddenly the whole surrounding changed, post this tunnel we got tortured by sun heat but past this, mist engulfed the surrounding and weather was chilled. We didn’t resist us to stop the car and enjoy the weather for a while. Then came the titanic view point -> the first sight of Kashmir Valley can be seen from here but heavy fog hide the picture. Again there is a toll tax barrier cost you Rs70.
We reached Anantnag at around 6:00PM and weather start playing with us, we faced intermittent rain up to Srinagar. There were heavy military present at Srinagar, this huge lush green valley surrounded by mighty snow clapped peaks and dark clouds hide their top into them. This was a mesmerizing moment for us. People are busy in their daily work while military people patrolling on roads.
We had reached Srinagar at around 7:15PM and found that most of the hotels are already booked and remaining was quoted high prices for their rooms. We find a so-so accommodation at `650, not worth at all, but that was the only option for us. Soon it started raining that decreases the mercury further.We heard about Krishna Dhaba (near Dal Gate) from almost everyone whom we asked -> ‘Where we can get good vegetarian food’. The popularity of this Dhaba can be predicted from the scene that we found here. A huge rush standing outside the Dhaba and people waiting for their turn standing near the tables, when the table would release, they not occupying it but like grabbed forcefully. There was so much hosh posh that we once thought of dropping the plan to had dinner here. But the big question was ‘Where next then?’, so we waited for a while and finally shared table along with a family. The food was not worth at all and I wonder why people waited here for this ordinary food. Perhaps this is the only option for vegetarian people in this vicinity.
After dinner we returned to our guest house, on the way I had called to Vaibhav and he informed that they stayed back at Anantnag due to heavy rain and found a good guest house at `600. We informed him that we would leave late tomorrow and catch them on the way.
Day2: Srinagar -> Kargil (205kms)
Woke late in the morning at around 6:00AM, had bath and refreshed from daily activities. While I was preparing for the day and wrapping up the things, Ricky was washing the car. He is so much caring for his car; it may possible that in case if no washing cloth available he would start using his T-Shirt instead?. We were left guest house at 7:00AM sharp. Weather was cloudy and chilled that disappointed us as this would not let us enjoy the beauty of Kashmir valley.
We first topped up the diesel tank and then headed to Dal Lake. We were amazed seeing the vastness and beauty of this lake. Lots of beautiful shikaras with varying colors were plying in the lake, mountains at its ends and the shadows of clouds in it provided a divine feeling inside us. What a beautiful place this was, what a beautiful location, we thought!!We haven’t visited any other place as we focused on Leh only and getting late here means getting late for Leh, so we moved ahead. We almost covered a half circle around Dal Lake for going for Sonamarg. Nice roads, beautiful sceneries and perfact weather, what else we could want more?
The route for Sonamarg passes through many small villages and meadows. The lush green meadows will be a perfact camping site. Soon Sun appeared in sky and light start playing hide & seek with the clouds. The opposite side of road had few left over glaciers. We reached Sonamarg at 9:45AM; this beautiful place is famous for its green meadows and Tajiwas Glacier, where you can witness the snow for round the year. Beauty of this place can’t be described in words, one have to be there for enjoying it.
We had breakfast and meanwhile clicked some photographs. There was no signal in the phone (as Airtel worked only till Kashmir Valley & then at Leh city only), so we didn’t know about the status of Vaibhav. After having breakfast we moved towards Zozila Pass -> 3530mts. This mighty pass comes under snowfall region and known for its notorious behavior. This was the first pass for us also.
The road start ascending from Sonamarg itself, each step you moved ahead, you come closer to the surrounding peaks. The road was initially in bad condition and after that in very bad condition. Here the definition of road is slightly tainted, here road means not the tarmac but where army trucks could passed at a pace of 10-15kph, where you can count at least 3-4 pits of 1-3 feet deep in just 1sqm of area.. The road was full of slush and tires were sliding here & there, the bump on the road intermittently hits the belly of car. The road near pass was in good conditions but the real picture was still left.We clicked few photographs at the top. There were many people like us enjoying the weather and almost everyone going towards Leh only. There were lots of snow at the top and the nearby streams were frozen, it seems to be a glacial river instead. Soon the weather was start deteriorating and snow flacks coming down. This was the first time Ricky witness any snowfall. He was enjoying it but army people told us to leave early as the things might got worse to worsen and if we were stuck to this place then nobody knows how much time it would takes to becomes normal again. Later we came to know that Vaibhav stuck at Zozila Pass and faced very difficulty while descending down. We soon start descending but the road was so slushy and full of boulders and pit holes (we were worried as the pits was full of water and we didn’t know how much deep they were) that our progress was not beyond 10-15kph. Somewhere the roads were very narrow and snow wall on either side made our progress very difficult. The upcoming traffic could only added our difficulty level as sometimes they took the easier & safe path and let allowed us to pass. Going forward to them was like hell but hates off to the navigation ability of Ricky that he drove past all of them.
The route beyond Zozila & up to Drass was not so happening, the roads was in very bad conditions but scenic. There are sign on the road mentioning ‘You are under surveillance of enemy’. This only filled a thrill in us that we were near to the border. Heavy army presence is a common sight in this area. Many a times Army convoy (sometimes consisting of more than 150 trucks) blocked your way and you feel frustrate, not on the Army people but on the J&K govt., who didn’t take care of the roads which are so important for the Army & in the Nation benefit.
In between Drass and Kargil situated Kargil war memorial in the vicinity of Tiger Hill. This memorial dedicated to the brave heroes of Kargil war (1999), who sacrificed their life only for us, for their countryman. The courage they shown in the war are awesome and splendid. We were bid prayer to the memorial and headed forward.Sirfira.com salutes to these heroes and all the army people of this country.
We reached Kargil at 4:00PM, this is the largest town in this area and servers as headquarter for near by places. This town was full of dust as some road construction work is going in. This area comes under PWD, so the progress is obviously very slow. We went past this town and after about 5kms I saw that Ricky felt drowsy and not in the conditions to drive further. We discussed and decided to call off the day at Kargil only so we turned back to Kargil city.
Now we had to arrange a hotel, there are many hotels at Kargil, but good names are expensive. We had looked to them and found that almost all the hotels having small room, all in all, not worth for the money. After lots of research we found one, this hotel was in shabby condition but what else one can think of in `350, while others was demanding whooping `1200-1300.
The hotel at which we stayed is near the only SBI ATM of that area (adjacent to SBI bank) and very near to market area, after passing a narrow passage you will be at the back of the SBI bank where this hotel is located. Hot water was available on demand, room was carpeted but carpet was seems to be of Moughel era. The best part was that the toilet seat was clean. Well we had dinner at some nearby restaurant and bought some biscuits from a bakery (these biscuits are worth to try).
DAY3: Kargil -> Leh (214kms)
We were waked up early in the morning as we decided to reach Leh early so that we can have some spare time for local sightseeing. The weather was chilled; still we ordered for hot water bucket and had wash. Now it was time to left Kargil and we headed towards Leh at 5:30AM.
We reached Mulbek at 7:00AM; the road after Kargil is in pathetic condition. The last night rainfall (snowfall at Mulbek) made the things worse; roads were slushy and full of pit holes. We stopped at Mulbek for breakfast and had delicious Garlic Tea and omelet. The sign of Buddhists culture starts from Mulbek onwards. As you are approaching to Namkeela Pass, the greenery slowly vanishes and turned into sandy mountains covered with snow.
We reached Namkeela Pass at 7:45AM; this is 12198 feet high pass. The weather was sunny but harsh chilled winds would freeze your bones. The snow flakes around the pass gave the impression that if Mushrooms were grooming all over the mountains. There were snow over the praying flags; snow was so soft that Ricky didn’t resist himself to taste a chunk of it. We spent some time there, enjoyed and took photographs as well.The views after Namkeela Pass was awesome, the things changes so fast that we hooked at once. "If this place is like that so beautiful and serene, how the Leh could look like" - we thought. The next pass is FotuLa Pass; this is the highest point on entire Srinagar -> Leh journey and stands at 13479 feet. This was the second time when we drove car over snow full roads after Zozila Pass. There was so much snow on the peaks that we couldn’t see it with bare eyes. The path was muddy but drivable. We reached at top of the pass at 9:30AM.
The view for pass was awesome, the vastness of Himalayan ranges some known and unknown can be seen from here. The bright sunrays make the whole surrounding more dramatic. Later we get to knew that the Bikers (Vaibhav) stuck to FotuLa due to heavy snowfall. The road few kms after the pass was in very bad conditions and the melting snow just added more difficulties.
After around 2-3kms, the road was getting better and it was like a miracle to us, like God heard poor’s plea. The black tarmac was looks as if it was a part of some airfield runway. Our plan was to visit Lamaryu Monastery but due to road construction that section (the straight road to Monastery) was closed and now if we want to plan for Lamaryu, then we have to go downhill first from old route and then once again come back to Lamaryu from back side, seeing this difficulty we decided to skip it for future and headed towards Leh. The road downhill was another excitement for us as it consisting continuing loops till it reach valley.
We passed many small villages en-route and clicked photographs. The road just before Nimmu was another marvel to riders. The straight patch of road for 4-5kms is like heaven, we drove past 140kph at that patch. Soon we reached Magnetic hill at 1:00PM, clicked some pics and headed towards Gurudwara Pathar Sahib. This is the very famous Gurudwara before Leh, and almost every tourist bid prayer here, maintained by Army people.When we reached there, Langar was served; we had that Langar and believe me I never forgot the food that we had there. The menu was consisting of Rice Pualw, Salad, Parantha, Chhole, Matar Paneer, Mix Vegetables, Raita, Papad, Pickles and Kheer full of dry fruits. What else can a person wants after having this divine lunch. We now moved to Leh and post Leh the road was so good that Ricky drove Swift at past 100kph for good time.
I had words with Tanveer (a friend) on call and thanks to him; he already booked a room for us also. The hotel is in Changspa area and its name is Thongsal. The rooms were good and duly carpeted. We paid `500 for the room, the only problem that there was no running hot water at that time as we two (We & Tanveer) were the only occupants there and owner required at least 4 room to be booked (but owner on second day start the running hot water too). We checked in at 3:15PM.
I had ate so much that felting drowsy and slept very soon until Ricky woke me up shouting -> "Its snowfall..its snowfall". To my surprise, when I slept the weather was sunny, it was past 4:30PM now and small snowflake coming down from the sky. No one can predict the weather at this height, I thought.
We were decided to take a short walk up to the market, got information from the hotel guys and we left for market on foot. The weather was cozy, so we were wearing sweat shirts only (later we regretted upon this decision). The market was full of crowed, tourists and local people were busy in shopping. There are many shops who sell in souvenir items, books, warm local & western clothes but I was very disappointed seeing there was no shop of local food in the main market though there was one 'Delhi Chaat Bhandaar'. What’s the reason for selling these food items which we can have everywhere in plains, I wonder.We purchased some souvenir for friends and family from the market and visited XYZ restaurant. This restaurant had been recommended by our hotel guys and believe me it was worth to visit this place. The ambience was good and they have several pits used for bonfire arrangements and around them were chairs, arranged in circular fashion. Soon after sun set the weather became chilly and we were now regretted that why we wore only sweat shirts and not jackets or anything warm.
We were literally shivering due to cold until they didn’t light up the bonfire. OMG, what a relief we felt from bone freezing cold. We ordered few snacks, I wondered if it was the warmth of snacks so that they tested like anything or in reality they were tested that much. Well the food was no doubt good and neither cheaper nor costlier. Now the time was to head back to hotel and this was the only thing that we don’t want to think of while sitting in the warmth of bonfire & enjoying finger licking food.
Well we had back to hotel and the worst part is that we even didn’t carry the torch. The pitch dark cold night & barking of stray dogs giving a scary look but as we seen the sky we were mesmerized by its beauty. We even recognized the Milky Way leave constellations apart. We reached hotel at around 9:30PM and ordered for some hot water. We were discussed plans for next day with Tanveer and decided to stay on more day in Leh, getting permit for nearby places.
In the night we got a call from Vaibhav that he just reached Leh and faced heavy snowfall at FotuLa while coming. We told that we would meet him next day at SDM office. It was time to call off the day.Day4: Leh & around (Getting permit)
We woke up late this day at around 9:30AM. Had little chat with Tanveer regarding for what all places that we needed the permit; he left for SDM office soon. As I told you Ricky is possessive about his car, he started cleaning it from inside and gave Rs50 to the hotel guy to wash it from outside. After a while we were leaving for SDM office.
Getting permit was not a big task if you know how things work there. You require to fill an Application Document (click here for downloading it) along with an Application cum Request letter (click here to view this) addressed to SDM-Leh and few charges like RS100 for car and Rs20 per day per person for the places you would like to visit. My advice is to mention all the places you willing to visit and also the nearby places as fee will be same and depends upon the number of days. Also remember to fill the current date in application form as sometime authorities may asked you to came later on filled date.
e.g. if you want to visit Turtuk, mention this place separately along with Nubra Valley, although this place lies in Nubra Valley but who knows if some one denies you to go further in Nubra just because Turtuk would not there in your application.
Thanks to Tanveer as he already guided us regarding this. We got the photocopy of the application form, from some gentleman (usually you wont find forms at SDM office and there is always the chaos about them). You can also get the forms from Xerox guy nearby.The process was simple but sometimes you have to argue them for some offbeat places like Chushul, Hanle and beyond. Don’t give up and try your best to convince them, it might take time but ultimately they will give you the permit.
We met Vaibhav, Prashant & Archit, who had plan to do local sightseeing and rest. So we returned to hotel and took a long nap that rejuvenates us. We again visited Leh market but this time wore heavy warm jackets?. Had dinner at same XYZ restaurant, served piping hot and delicious snacks & dinner. Back to hotel late night and slept in no time.
Day5: Leh -> Nubra -> Halfway to Turtuk
Wake up early as usual and headed to Khardung La pass. We were excited by just thinking that soon we were on the highest motorable pass in the world. This pass located at some 32km from main Leh town. The road is narrow but good. Soon we reached the north pallu, this is a army post where they checked the permits and other documents if required. We had got our papers signed and waited for almost 30 minutes to let the barrier opened (actually there was truck jam at up there near the pass). Weather was stunning cold and we would prefer to stayed back in the car only. We were the first in the row and soon the queue got longer and longer.
As barrier opened the race started by following vehicle to get past from each other. That was dangerous seeing the road conditions. Soon the snow line started and there are tones of snow at both the side of the road. We were afraid by the thought that what happened if our car stuck in between. The road was now getting dangerous by each turn passes. We slowly and consistently were moving ahead in 2nd gear.Tip: While on snow, move slowly and on lower gear. Don't accelerate or break the vehicle unnecessarily and moving at constant speed may help you.
It took less than 1 hr to reach Khardung La top. The weather was damn chilled. We didn’t stay for long there as the clouds hinder the beauty of surrounding so we took few pics and moved ahead. The trucks ahead were leaving the black heavy sooth that certainly proved fatal to asthmatic patients. One could see the black ice on his left, which witnessed the pollution we people leaving behind. Slowly but cautiously we reached south pallu and there was snow and only snow everywhere. One has to descend all the way down to Diskit village from here. The journey was not great till we reached Khalsar, the point from where the desert starts.
The Nubra valley is located at a height of just 2200-2400msl, so is warmer than Leh. People said they sometime need fan in the summers. What a drastic change in the climate in just 100kms.
How could on this earth, one can think that there is desert in this land of mountain and snow. We clicked few pics over sand dunes and headed towards Diskit (the major town of the Nubra Valley). After reaching Diskit we searched for the guest house ‘’. The guest house was very beautiful & rooms are descent, the restaurant serving most of the cuisine (prior order is necessary so they make necessary arrangements beforehand).
After check-in in the guest house, we moved towards Turtuk, this is the last town in Nubra valley towards Pakistani border. One can see the Pakistani villages on the other side of river from here. This village is famous for the production of best quality dry fruits. But the destiny had its own way, the storm started; yes I’m talking about sand storm. We are some 25kms before Turtuk and the storm was so dense that even mountains at our side not visible and after some time visibility reduced to mere 40-50mts, so we cancelled the idea for visiting Turtuk this time and back to Diskit.There is a town Hundar few kms after Diskit, this is the only place in India which is famous for its double hump camels. People would enjoy ride over them in this cold desert in just Rs100-150. This is something unusual, camels at this place, but there is nothing impossible in front of Mother Nature. We spent some time there, clicked few pics, had lunch in army canteen, enjoy DOSA there, the taste was so-so but this was a welcome change in this terrain, and returned to Diskit.
Note: Diskit having petrol pump, but most of the time it remains ideal, so better carry your fuel supply from Leh only.
Tanveer and Vaibhav joined us at hotel and we planed directly for Panong-Tso from here. There is a road which connects Nubra to Panong via Agham & Shyok, bypassing Khardung-La all together. We talked to hotel guy for gathering more information and came to know that this road was still under construction and only big vehicle could made it. We thought to give our luck a chance and planning for this route tomorrow.
Day6: Nubra -> Agham -> Wari-La -> Agham -> Khardung-La -> Leh -> ChumathangWhen we all were started in the morning no one knows what hide in the hands of fate. Vaibhav and we started around 7AM. The road, 24kms to Agham bifurcates from Khalsar. The road is initially goes with mountain, after steep decline to river bed the road widen to its length and what a superb tarmac laid in this part that Ricky didn’t resisted him and drove the car to good 140km/hr. Agham is very small village, consisting of not more then 3-4 houses. There is a T-point after crossing a small bridge, the left is your Panong-Tso and right goes to Warli-La.
The road was newly laid and we drove consistently 80-90km/hr. All of sudden we see a turn where we couldn’t figure out the road. My heart was beating fast and I was afraid of some miss happening. Screeeeettcccccchhh....we were at 0 in no time, I came out from the car and checked the situation. There was very narrow road (that was not the road actually but some stones laid over another), with very steep incline. Vaibhav, Prashant, Archit & I, clear the road by placing & displacing some stones from the road. Ricky tried several time to get out from this patch but not succeeded, the only things that one can felt at that time was utter disappointment and the smell of rubber caused by burning tire.
After some time Tanveer came as rescuer, he offered to tow our car with his white elephant (Safari 4*4), we made way to Tanveer and his Safari now standing infront of us. As Tanveer going to tie the rope, Taaanaaaakkk....a stone striked with his Safari and suddenly the stone rain started. The stones hitting both the cars so Tanveer quickly drove his car to other side and we went back. Ricky and I thought that even if we crossed this hurdle what if we might found some other hurdle, bigger than current one. We conveyed our decision to them and with heavy heart moved back to Agham.
At Agham we thought to gave a try to Warli-La, if this pass open than we could save out effort and time to go back to Leh and then to Panong. So we moved to Warli-La, the road was empty, there was plant in the middle of road, this proves that we were the only people there in this season. The Wari-La is some 30kms form Agham, soon we reached the village from where we could seen the Wari-La and this time also we disappointed by seeing that there is nothing we can called Road except huge masses of snow. Villager stamped on our prediction that no vehicle could pass the Wari-La for another month.Now the only solution was to move back to Leh via Khardung-La. Had it not been the beautiful scenery, the river and snow clapped mountains; I can’t tell you how much frustrated we felt at that time. Ricky was driving fast but safe and we reached South Pallu at 12:45PM. There was massive Jam there, the road was closed by Army and people told that it would open by 2PM. We rested in the car only. After a long break at around 1:30PM, the gates opened and people rushed to scale Khardung-La in no time.
There was jam just before Khardung top due to slippery road, people found difficulty in crossing a patch that was frozen by solid ice. This would add the delay few more hrs. Suddenly snowfall started, Ricky who never seen the snowfall in his life, was seen so much snow and snowfall that now he started praying for no more snowfall. What an irony!!
Ricky drove the car with excellence and we were at Khardun top at around 2PM. We reached Leh at 3PM and after refueling, left for Panong. On the way we visited Thiksay monastery, the largest in this area. When we reached Upshi, another sad news broke our heart, the Chang-La (gateway to mighty Panong Lake) was closed due to heavy snowfall. We shattered; we had cursed our luck but told us that 'Whatever God do is in the benefit of you'.
We had lunch at Upshi, believe me guys we had delicious Rajma-Rice and Tandoori Roti with mix vegetable there, in just Rs30. We thought to not waste our day and planned for Tso Moriri instead. Upshi is the small place where roads bifurcate to Panong, Tso Moriri and Manali. There are many reasonable dhabas and guest houses. The last petrol pump was some 10kms before Upshi on the Leh side.We drove to Tso Moriri after having lunch. The sun shines to its beauty over us while at Chang-La side, one could observe the dense clouds formation. The road to Tso Moriri is in awesome shape, complete black, well laid tarmac. From Upshi the dictance to Tso Moriri is around 190kms, but can be doable in 4hrs flat, such are the roads here. The road is running along with river Indus. We started at 5PM form Upshi and reached Chumathang at 7PM. We took a day break here. The Chumathang is a small but major village in this area and famous for its hot water springs. We check in a guest house at Rs300, which was adjacent to hot spring. The room was small but good enough. The weather was chilled and the temperature was below zero. But, thanks to hot spring, which made our room cozy.
We met father-son duo from Germany, they were coming from Manali on bullet, and they told us the conditions up there. They said that the Barlach-la route was closed due to heavy avalanche. They only after much hectic struggle and with the help of Army made their way to this place. I saw the father, he was like as if would die in a while.
After having dinner we called off the day.
Day7: Chumathang -> TsoMoriri -> Upshi -> Army Cant.
The night was warm and cozy, thanks to hot spring, even our room felt its warmth. It was hard to find any shop open at 5:30 for breakfast so we decided to move on and left for Tso-Moriri. The road as I mentioned, was fabulous. The sun rays striking with mud terrain creating a golden hue. There is a army post ahead of Chumathang from where the road bifurcates to Chumthang Desert (if you go straight) and towards Korzok (if you cross the river and move to right). We moved to right side and adieu the mighty Indus River. The road ahead is narrow but good laid and runs along with the water stream on the right.Soon we realized that we again gaining elevation and also the snow patch starts in view. After few kms, there was snow at both side of the road. The road was good but scattered stones were everywhere. Soon we reached a village from where the road divides for More Plains and Korzok. We decided to take this route while coming back from Tso-Moriri but due to lack of diesel, we had to postpone this idea.
Few kms ahead of this village as we passed a small pass on the way the first view of Tso-Kar Lake comes into view. The view was amazing, the frozen lake with snow all around, what else we would wants at that time. Soon we reached at the shore of the lake, enjoyed there for full 1.5hrs. I have a doubt in my mind that if this would be the real Tso-Moriri and what I had recalled that this lake is somewhat different from what we looked into internet. So we reached to shepherd and on asking our query he confirms that this is not the actual Tso-Moriri bur Tso-Kar. The real lake still 10kms from here.
Then started the most arduous 10kms, the road was like glass, our car slipped here and there and we hardly made it to move on this terrain. Slowly we progressed to Tso-Moriri and the first sight of the lake was, WOW!!! It is heaven or what, we exclaimed!! The vast blue water, the snow clapped peaks all around, horses grazing in the grass, we overwhelmed by this view. We left the car behind and walk towards lake; this was clean 150mts slope that we covered. Actually we took a wrong turn and instead going towards Krozok we moved to opposite direction. But we don’t have enough patience to correct our path and at that time we even don’t want it to be.After 15 minutes we were at the shore of the lake, the waves striking the shore as if we stand near sea not a lake. The air was so thin that we exhausted in no time and so cold that one can felt pain in his ear. After enjoying at the lake for good 1hr we moved back. At ascent, Ricky was completely exhausted and so we took a 20 minute break there. This was quite sunny but the cold wind was so harsh that we would sneak into the car.
At return we saw many Sheppard’s, pitched their tents at various places. We were amazed seeing so many people in this cold desert. One thing I noticed that everyone there had have Maruti Gypsy Car. Well they need it more there. Return was quite and peaceful, most of the snow melts by that time and roads were looked washed clear.
We had our lunch at Chumathang and boy what a journey that was; we hadn’t seen a single soul on the road except few army trucks. The road was like made for F1 racing instead, we reached Upshi at 4PM. We entered into the same restaurant cum Dhaba in which we used to have lunch n previous day. Suddenly a thump of Bullet and a large voice intruded the silent that was Archit followed by Prashant and Vaibhav. We amazed to meet him in this way; they told that they were coming from Panong-Tso Lake.Archit’s friend is working in BRO and invited us in the camp for night stay. He was very courteous guy, not to mentions despite the less space in the camp he arranged all the things for us in perfact manner. We enquired him regarding the road condition of Leh-Manali highway, but things would not clear even after calling at Sarchu BRO check post. He assured us that roads were clear till Sarchu but they don’t aware of the situation ahead. But the lure of saving a complete one day not resists us to opt for that route despite of unavailability of information.
THE PROBLEM: Road from Leh till Sarchu take care by BRO Project Himank and after that from Sarchu till Manali taken care by Project Deepak. Now the problem is that there is no communication between these two projects. I don’t know why they wont having each other’s contact numbers or they simply don’t want to disclose it to laymen like us. We saw many people stranded at Sarchu from several days without any information.
We also closely felt the Army people life; they are really working very hard so that common men don’t feel the pain (except above problem stated). We had lodes of talk and same round of boozes, till all falls asleep.
Day8: Upshi -> More Plains -> Sarchu.Next day we begin our journey a bit late so that the snow at Tanglang-La would melt out and we won’t face any black ice on the way. This is the highest pass on this route and most dangerous one (as per BRO people). The road was nice till pass except few patches with tons of snow at both side of the road. The hardest part to negotiate was where road widening work was going on. The slush and large rocks on the road made out journey difficult but Ricky (who was graduated after successfully cleared the Khardung-La drive) driving and negotiating those patches perfectly. We rested for a while at the top and one can see the vast land of More Plains on the other side.
After descending from pass, we were driving like zoom and zap on More Plains but wait...what the heck is that -> ‘Is it More plains, I asked myself?’. This barren land was completely buried under tons of snow. Even Vaibhav surprised seeing this; it was a surprised thing for him also. The happiness was soon turned out to be the sorrow for us. The bright Sun, melting the snow and road widening work made the More Plain a giant hell for small car and bikes. The slush and mud made very difficult to drive onto that. But we managed to escape from this hell and reached Pang. Can you imagine how Pang located; it is located at the sheer drop of almost 500mts where More Plains ends.
There are many shops situated at Pang but all deserted, on enquiring they told us that nobody from other side reached here from last few days. We were disappointed hearing this but nothing was in our hand so we moved ahead. The road was passing through some of the best sceneries I have seen in my life.
After crossing twin pass the Nakee-La and Lachung-La, I was like ‘Who the hell rode this road again’. The road was full of snow (which was not expected at that time). We reached Gatta Loops (a cluster of 21 loops on the road) in not time and after that the road was smooth and straight with no ice on the road.We reached Sarchu in good time at 4:30PM and got the news that Barlachla was closed due to heavy landslide. Its like some thunder stroked to us, there are people waiting for road to open from last few days and nobody had exact information that when would the road open. We enquired at the local BRO check post but even they don’t have any clear information. We decided to check ourselves the road condition and so we drove till Bharatpur but guys..I never saw such a massive landslide, no road visible for few kms, just snow and rocks. Even if BRO were start clearing the road, it would easily take a week for them.
Disappointed we returned to Sarchu and check-in the Dhaba at Rs50 per bed per night. We had Maggi and omlette there and believe me the Omlette was fantastic, golden, creamy and soft. We discussed among ourselves and decided to return back to Leh next day. This was sad decision and after seeing the distance chart we were like crying -> Chandigarh -> 574kms whereas via Srinagar it will be some 1150kms. But there is nothing in our hand and so we slip into the quilt and waited for next day.
Day9: Sarchu -> Leh -> KhalsiRicky woke me in worried voice -> "Car didn’t start, I tried it many times but it won't". I hurriedly left the quilt and rush to the car. We opened the bonnet and stand the car in direct sun light. A guy come to us and suggested that our car might have heating coils system in the engine and just 2-3 twist of key flowed by a self could made it start, we followed the same and bingo it worked. Thanks to that nice guy.
We left Sarchu at 10AM, in the hope that if we could get some information from BRO regarding the route ahead. Soon we reached More Plains and in contrary to our belief that More Plains was dry out in a single day, there was no or little snow present. Well, this was good to us as now the true colors of peak nearby came into view.
We met few guys on the way driving to Sarchu, we suggested them to return back but they reluctant in doing so, okay we said and drove ahead. We reached Leh at 3:45PM; this was quick, thanks to Ricky and salute to his driving. We filled the tank and headed back, we decided to cover as much distance this day.
We reached Khalsi a small but major village on the way and enquired about the room in a hotel there. The owner was like not in the mood and initially refused but later asking high prices for tent accommodation. We skip this idea and moved little further. Just outside the village we pitched our tent, it was 12:30PM and we worked in the car’s light. While Ricky and Vaibhav slept in the car, we (Archit, Prashant & Me) opted for tent only.Day10: Khalsi -> Kargil -> Srinagar -> PatniTop
This was the long and tiring day, traversing all the way again. We were not interested in Kashmir so skipped it completely by taking the ByPass. We stopped few kms before Patni Top and check-in a hotel in Rs500 per room. Room was cozy and toilet was neat and clean. We had dinner on the way, Rajmash -> Chawal, those was the delicious dinner with lodes of Desi Ghee in that at mere Rs40. One more thing tat I would like to share is the conversation with a security guard near toll plaza just before Jawahar tunnel. We were stopped and asked by a security personal that ->
Security Personal -> from where you are coming?
Me - From Leh
Security Personal -> directly from Leh, don’t you visit Kashmir.
Me -> Politely nodded in 'No'.
Security Personal -> Why, don’t you like it?
Me -> If in our country, we enquired like this, how can we visit such a place.
Security Personal -> (Starring into my eyes) you can go.
I mean it's my country, my own place, why the hell I have to carry identity proof, Why I considered to be the bad element, why I enquired at each check post. Why I not allowed visiting places at the border areas, why I require permit for all the places...why?Why I love that part of my country which I only heard in news, which I never saw and not allowed to visit. Let us allow not only those places but each and every bit of my country.
Day11: Patni Top -> Udhampur -> Chandigarh
We started at 6:30AM and reached Chandigarh in the night at 8PM. We were so tired that we had dinner prepared by dear Wify and fall asleep. Next day Ricky left for Delhi at 5AM and I got a call from him at 9AM that he reached safely at home. We calculated later and come to know that Swift Vdi gave a superb 20.34 kmpl on the entire journey. Total damage to us would be Rs15000 approx. for the entire voyage.Note: You can download the application format and form by clicking at below links:
